I am triumphant after making nine jars of gorgeous, tangy, tawny marmalade which has set – yes! it did – to the point at which you can hold the jar upside down and it stays put, and yet melts to a spreadable deliciousness when applied to toast. The last time I tried, I was following a very complicated recipe and all it produced was a characterless, over-sweet slop. So this recipe is brilliant and I want to share it with anyone thinking about making marmalade while the Seville oranges are in season.
We have Riverford, the organic farm people, to thank. I got the oranges and lemons from them with accompanying recipe in my weekly box. But some markets and grocers as well as a few supermarkets (Sainsbury’s and Waitrose on a quick search) are selling Seville oranges. I was surprised to see that they are like big satsumas with a loose skin and uneven colour. Maybe I wasn’t even using the right orange last time.
One warning – this takes time. Don’t think you can do it in an afternoon and then go out in the evening. I did and was rescued by the girl, who took over at the point when you add the sugar and boil. And test for wrinkling and, if it hasn’t reached setting point, boil again. The girl reckons she had to do that about seven times before the marmalade wrinkled.
Before you start…
Before you start you need a piece of cotton muslin big enough to sit in a large bowl and hang over the sides, and string to tie it with; about nine jam jars (you can always empty a coffee jar or similar if you don’t have enough). Easiest is if you use the original lids, but if not you can use greaseproof paper to make the discs that sit directly on the marmalade, and clingfilm sealed with an elastic band over the top of the jar.
Ingredients:
- 1.5kg Seville oranges
- 2 lemons
- 2.5 litres cold water
- approx 2kg granulated sugar (we used golden granulated, and more than 2kg)
Basically there are six main tasks and I am putting VERY approximate times by them:
- Peeling and slicing the peel: 1 hour
- Putting everything into pan and bringing to boil: 1 hour
- Leave to simmer for 2 hours
- Adding sugar and bringing to boil: ¾ hour
- Boiling and testing until it wrinkles: 1½ hours
- Leaving then putting in jars: ½ hour
So approximate total = 6¾ hours.
Do use the original recipe on the Riverford website: all I’m doing here is adding in my experience of using it.
- Peel oranges and lemons, leaving as much pith behind as possible. Slice peel into thin strips and put into a really big pan.
- Line a large bowl with muslin. Cut the fruit in half and squeeze juice into bowl with your hands. Put the squeezed fruit including pips into the muslin, pull the corners and sides together to make a bag and lift above the bowl. Squeeze out remaining juice and then tie muslin with string to hold the pith etc inside. Put muslin and juice into the pan. Add 2.5 litres of cold water. Bring to the boil (this took half an hour) then reduce to a simmer.
- Leave to simmer for two hours, until the peel is tender, filling the house with citrus aroma. This is a good moment to put a few saucers in the fridge for testing the marmalade later, and sterilise the jars. Just putting them through the dishwasher must be the easiest but ours was broken so I put them on a baking tray in a cold oven and heated it to 140°C for 10-15 minutes. They stayed in there till needed. If you are not sure about putting the lids in the oven, sterilise them at the end: put the hot marmalade in the jars, screw down the lids and turn them upside down for five minutes.
- Pull out the muslin bag, put it in a big sieve and use a spoon to press the juice back into the pan. You can discard the bag. Now the amount of liquid you have in the pan needs to be measured in order to calculate the right amount of sugar. The easiest way is to pour all the contents of the pan into a big bowl and then use a measuring jug to put it back (peel and all) into the pan. Add 450g sugar for every 500ml liquid. Gently heat for 15 mins until the sugar has dissolved. Turn up the heat and bring to boil.
- Boil rapidly for 15 mins and then test to see if it has reached setting point: fetch one of the cold saucers from the fridge and put a teaspoon of marmalade on it. Gently push with the back of the spoon. If it starts to wrinkle, setting point has been reached. If not, keep boiling and re-test every ten minutes. The girl just washed the saucer and put it back in the fridge, she had to do it so many times. Seasoned marmalade makers may just do the initial boil for a longer time – any advice here? As soon as you reach setting point, TURN OFF THE HEAT. A friend warns ruefully that if you get bored, wander off and miss the moment, it changes texture and spoils.
- Skim any scum off the surface and leave to stand for 15 mins. Stir gently and then spoon into the warm jars. Put on the lids and turn upside down for five minutes or put discs of greaseproof paper directly on the marmalade and seal with clingfilm (or cellophane) and elastic bands. Leave somewhere cool overnight.
Don’t be put off by the palava. The result is a rich, tawny orange marmalade so good it’s addictive. The taste is satisfyingly bitter and tangy beyond anything mass produced, with extra tang when you bite on the peel. And there is an additional surprise. It has a clear, jewell-like shine like glass. Do it – because it’s worth it.